What below game sequences are forcing after you make a takeout double? RHO opens
1, you double, partner bids 1. Other than jumping to 4, how do you make a
game-forcing spade bid? In other words, how do you make a forcing spade bid
holding AQ432AKQAQ43x in order to find out if partner has spade support?
As you can see from the following answers, there are different opinions on which
sequences are forcing. The object here is to make some rules. Everyone plays
that after (1) – Double – (P) – 1 – (P), 1 shows extra values,
AKJxxAKxKxxxx for instance. Since 1 is non-forcing, Advancer can pass 1
with a very bad hand. Doubler could have an extra king and still bid only 1,
AKJxxAKJKxxKx for instance. 1 shows 18- 22 HCP. The spade suit could be
very strong or could be a weak five-card suit.
Suppose Doubler has a stronger hand. After (1) – double – (P) – 1 – (P),
Doubler has two ways to show a stronger hand with spades. A jump to 2 shows a
very good six-card or longer suit and is similar to the auction 2 - 2 - 2. A
cue bid followed by 2 shows a five-card or weak six-card suit and is also
similar to the auction 2 - 2 -2. Both 2 auctions are forcing for at least
one round. A cue-bid followed by a jump is 100% forcing to game and shows a
If Doubler bids 1 after (1) – Double – (P) – 1 – (P), it could be a minimum
hand with five hearts and four spades AKxxAJxxxxxxx for instance. This
treatment is called Equal Level Conversion. To make a strong heart bid you have
to jump in hearts or cue bid first. Bidding 1 can never be an Equal Level
The following experts play that a cue bid or a jump sets up a force.
---A cue bid followed by a new suit should be
forcing. This is not a sequence much discussed among partnerships, because it
rarely comes up. With a better suit, the big hand can double then jump, but not
with an AQxxx suit. The double and then jump auction should be reserved for
six-card or longer suits.
---With a one-suiter, jump to 2
bid, and bid 2
---A cue bid followed by a new suit should be a
---After a cue bid of 2
, a bid of 2
would be a
one-round force. I would then raise 3
or bid 3
over 2NT. After a cue bid
, a bid of 3
would be a game-forcing, but not suitable for this hand,
except if partner bids 2NT or 3
Since opening 2 - 2 - 2 is not 100% game forcing, you can still end up in
3 if Advancer shows nothing and Doubler gives him a chance to get out.
---I start with a cue bid of 2
and then all spade
bids are forcing. Actually, I'm even more interested in getting diamonds into
---Only way to force is to cue bid followed by a
---I think that if you start with a cue bid and
follow with a new suit, that is forcing for the next round, as opposed to
the first time. If you then bid another suit after partner's next
bid, that is forcing. If partner bids 3
again after the cue bid and the new
suit, it would seem that we have found the strain we should play in and proceed
to game in that suit. A double followed by a cue bid, followed by a new suit is
forcing and we should know where we stand.
---To force with my own suit I cue bid first, then
I bid my suit. If my bid is at the two-level, it's forcing for one round only,
but I can keep bidding if I'm strong enough. Immediate spade bids are weaker: 1
shows a fifth spade and extra values in a hand that otherwise resembles a
takeout double (some support for all unbid suits). 2
is very strong and
one-suited, and may not contain support for other suits, but it’s non-forcing.
It's like an old-fashioned strong jump overcall. 3
must mean something, but
I've never used or seen the bid, so I'm not sure what. The picture changes if
partner's bid is voluntary rather than forced. For example, if the auction were
-- DBL (by me) – 1
(by partner) – Pass, then 1
by me would be forcing,
since it is a new suit over a value-showing (voluntary) action. Logically, 2
me would therefore be game-forcing.
---A cue bid followed by a bid of a new suit is
one-round force. This treatment meshes well with simple new-suit bid quite
strong--e.g., bidding 1
after doubling with about 18-21 points. Jumping
directly to 2
would show a more-playable spade suit.
---While it might not be best, big hands like the one
in the example all start with a cue bid. If you cue bid 2
and partner bids 2
is forcing for one round, showing a huge hand. That would be the only
real option with this hand. Partner might bid 1
would be forced to rebid 2
over the cue bid showing the weakest possible hand
and then over my 2
bid would certainly rebid 2NT for lack of anything else,
although passing 2
could end up being the best option!! I would then bid 3
and they would bid 3
which I would pass. Note that after the 1
partner has values, partner can bid a three-card major since they have denied a
four-card major with the 1
---The hand you gave is not a game-forcing spade bid
or a game-forcing anything bid. Cue bid and then 2
is a one-round force.
---A cue bid followed by a new suit should be a
one-round force, though I don't think it should be quite game forcing. If you
rebid that suit below game after a non-forward going bid by partner, partner
should be allowed to pass with a yarborough.
---Cue bidding and then bidding my own suit is
forcing at least one round.
---Cue bid their suit and then bid yours is
forcing for one round.
---Cue bid and then bid spades is a one-round
---I think that since “double” followed by a simple
suit bid shows a very strong hand, that it is useful to treat “double” followed
by a jump in a new suit as forcing. Not that it's likely to come up very often,
but it makes more sense than invitational.
---Cuebid followed by a new suit is game
---I guess cue bidding and jumping in spades,
or cue bidding and bidding game if no room to jump, would describe this type of
---Cue bid 2
, and over partner’s response bid 2
or more, as a new suit following a cue bid is a one-round force as are
subsequent new suit bids.
---I would have to cue bid 2
and follow with 2
to create a force. Is that what one should do? Perhaps a jump to 2
would do justice to this hand. It is certainly not worth a game force in my
---If I cue bid 2
and partner bids 2
is forcing. Over 2NT showing at least some values, then 3
, a jump to 2
is forcing, but shows more of a spade hand. A cue bid
first and then bidding spades shows a more flexible hand. So with this hand, I
would consider 2
not a terrible bid but a flawed bid.
---The only way we can force is to cue bid. A cue
bid followed by a new suit is forcing. Still, that doesn't necessarily resolve
the bidding problems: Picture partner with
has some play,
but not 4
. Our auction would continue 2
– ??. Probably 3
. Would we
veer back to diamonds? What if partner were 2-3-3-5? I gave that hand to my
wife, who sometimes passes forcing bids when it looks right, and she raised to
. So, when I go for -1100 in 4
doubled, I can blame my wife.
---I play a simple method: After partner’s
forced response, a new suit shows a good hand and is constructive but not
forcing. A jump shift in a new suit or a cue bid, are forcing - after that, a
return to responder's suit or a simple raise are also non-forcing. On your
example auction, responder could have
xxx and raise to 3
bids more with any excuse. After a takeout double, a minimum notrump rebid is
19-20 HCP, a jump is 21-22 HCP and with more we get to game one way or another.
If responder, on the other hand, volunteers an unforced bid, then a new suit is
forcing for one round. We are forced until a suit is either bid twice or raised,
) – Dbl – (1
) – 1
– (P) –1
would be forcing here because
responder has shown values with 1
If Advancer makes a free bid, then new suits by Doubler are forcing.
Advancer shows values when he makes a free bid.
The following experts play that a jump after a takeout double is non-forcing.
---If I double and partner makes a minimum
bid such as (1
) – Double – (P) – 1
, a new suit by me is traditional, showing a
good hand. A jump by me is strong, but not forcing. A cue bid by me and then a
new suit is forcing. If I double and partner makes a free bid, a new suit by me
is forcing. A jump in a new suit is forcing to game. A cue bid is expected to be
support for partner or a notrump search. If partner makes some other bid which
is defined as preemptive, these rules do not apply and I confess I have never
tried to set up rules for it.
---Cue bid, then a spade bid, is forcing one round.
A jump in spades without a cue bid is an ACOL TWO BID–eight tricks but not
forcing. A cue bid and then a jump is not clear: (1
) – Double – (P) – 1
– (P) – 2
– (P) – 3
. This looks like a 2
bid single-suited, whereas 2
would only be forcing to 3
---I think you have to keep cue-bidding to force to
game. Partner can pass a jump to 2
with a yarborough and no support.
---Very simply, the takeout doubler needs to, after
partner's initial response, cue bid first and then on the next round either bid
a new suit, which is not then absolutely forcing unless a cue bid, followed by a
jump, which would be. Somewhat unclear, but IMHO, considerably better than to
play after doubling a new suit bid is forcing or even a jump, although highly
invitational, which I think cannot be played forcing by or for any intelligent
---I adhered to what I believe is the classical
old-fashioned approach. A bid of 1
shows extra strength and is encouraging. A
jump to 2
is strong but not quite forcing. To force, the doubler must cue bid
opener's suit before bidding his suit. I don't contend that this approach is
--I would start with a jump cue bid and then bid 3
over partner’s expected 3
---I would first start with a cue bid of 2
When I bid a new suit, it is almost forcing, but I guess I would have to cue bid
and then jump. 1
= good hand 2
= good hand, great suit 2
hand, good suit 2
= great, great hand and some people play a jump to 3
says bid game with any excuse.
---I don’t think this is a good hand for your
would be forcing, but you don’t have the spades for that. With this
hand, I’d either bid 6
right now, which I think is the most likely slam, or
followed by 2
, but that would get you raised on a lot of hands (any
doubleton honor for instance) that you don’t want to be raised on. In
retrospect, that is the key problem: avoid creating a situation where partner
raises when spades aren’t supposed to be trumps.
I think that after partner supports spades, you can bid diamonds giving
partner a choice of strains.
---We play a cue bid is game forcing, so to force we
have to cue bid and then bid spades. However, a simple 1
19-20 HCP, and a jump to 2
shows about 21-22; both are non-forcing and
only promise five pieces. The hand you use in this example is a bad 21 HCP in my
opinion, so 2
After (1) – Double – (P) – 1 - (P), 1 shows extra values. Advancer passes
1 with support and an extremely bad hand. Kxxxxxxxxxxxx is a minimum raise.
With more, Advancer cue bids or jumps. Since 1 can be very strong, Doubler’s
jump to 2, or a 2 cue bid followed by 2, is forcing for one round. The only
difference is that a jump to 2 shows a very good suit, one that can play
opposite a singleton. A cue bid followed by 2 shows a five-card suit.